The Comenius Trail
The journey takes us back to a time when our mountains, remote and distant from the events in the country, provided a protective hand to all those who came into conflict with the ruling lords. At the beginning of the 17th century, the conflict between Catholics and Protestants in Bohemia reached its peak, culminating in the Battle of White Mountain in 1620.
At that time, many non-Catholics fled to Silesia, located beyond the border mountains, under the protection of the local Protestant lords. Among those who left their homeland because of their faith was the bishop of the most famous Czech Protestant church, the Unity of the Brethren, Jan Amos Komenský (1592-1670), one of Europe's greatest educators and humanist philosophers, writer, and reformer.
Beneath the mountains, far from the center of the country, the Catholic lords' retaliation was slower. And so, between 1626 and 1628, Comenius found temporary refuge here at the castle in Bílá Třemešná. During his stay, he also visited other places in the Podkrkonoší region. In the winter of 1627, he visited the castle of his supporter, Mr. Václav Záruba of Hustířany in Horní Branná, who was living out his days on his confiscated estate, now owned by Wallenstein. Today, the castle houses not only the municipal office but also a small museum commemorating Comenius' stay and work. From here, he set out on his escape from his homeland. He left his homeland near Žacléř in the village of Černá Voda, where a simple memorial on Růžový palouček (Pink Meadow) commemorates this sad event today.
From T.G.M. Square in Vrchlabí, head north on Krkonošská Street, turn left at St. Lawrence Church, and turn left again after the Augustinian monastery. Pass Vejsplachy Pond and continue along cycle route No. 22. Join the main road towards Jilemnice, and after a while turn left towards Horní Branná. At the castle in Horní Branná, where J. A. Komenský also stayed, turn left again. Pass through Dolní Branná, continue towards Studenec, and after Dolní Branná, turn left towards Horní Kalná. Before Horní Kalná, turn left onto an unmarked dirt road, cross the Předpeklí hill, and continue along the dirt road towards the southeast. Cross the Na Lánech hill. On the hill above Slemén, join cycle route No. 4294 and follow it down to Hostinné. Join cycle route No. 4300 and ride through the village of Čermná to Vlčice. Here, turn left onto cycle route No. 4299. After Javorník, turn right onto the green tourist trail. After Hladíkova Výšina, follow the yellow tourist trail for a short distance and join the blue cycle route No. 4301. Follow it through Černý Důl, above the quarry in Černý Důl, Horní Lánov to Vrchlabí.
Augustinian monastery
The Augustinian monastery in Vrchlabi was established in 1705 following an initiative by the House of Morzin. The Augustinian Monastery has served visitors for many years to help them learn about the beauty and richness of the Krkonose Mts. as the seat of the Krkonose Museum as well as the Visitor Centre of the Krkonossky National Park.
Horní Branná
Horní Branná Castle, where J. A. Komenský left his mark, and the Harrach family tomb are definitely worth stopping by and taking a look around.
The town of Hostinné
The next destination on our trip is a town on the Elbe River, where giants speak at the town hall and whose pride and joy is the Franciscan monastery with its gallery of ancient art.
Černý Důl
In this mountain village, you should not miss the Krkonoše Underground Museum.
Palace
The Renaissance palace which replaced the former Gothic moated fort was completed in 1546 as the seat of Krystof Gendorf of Gendorf. An unknown architect used the layout of an Italian castello (small fortress or stronghold). The building, originally surrounded by a 12m wide moat and accessible by three bridges.
